By Craig Sheather
Nestled amidst the rolling hills and mist-covered peaks of Victoria's alpine region, our mountain road trip begins along the epic Great Alpine Road. With my seven-year-old son Mo by my side, along with my good mate Scott and his son Nate, the promise of adventure hangs thick in the air as we set out to explore the wonders of the high country.
As we wind our way along the Great Alpine Road, the mountains loom large in the distance, their peaks shrouded in fog and mist, teasing us with glimpses of their majesty. Unfortunately, the weather obscures the view of Mt Feathertop as we pass by, but we refuse to let the clouds dampen our spirits as we press on toward our first destination: Dinner Plain.
Checking into our cosy apartment in the heart of the village, we're determined to make the most of our time. Undaunted by the drizzling rain, we venture out to discover Carmichael Falls, where the rushing waters cascade over moss-covered rocks, painting a picture of wild beauty against the backdrop of the mist-cloaked escarpment.
“Holy guacamole,” Mo yells at the top of his voice. “This waterfall is mega cool. The best EVER!”
Next, we take on the Montane Loop, which soon connects with the 'Room with a View' trail. This pleasant pathway leads to an expansive clearing with delightful far-flung vistas. Mo and Nate sprint ahead, their giggles echoing through the woods as they splash about in the puddles that have pooled along the track.
In the afternoon, we split into teams for a fun round of frisbee golf, weaving our way through the village and competing for bragging rights as the reigning champions. The rivalry sparks plenty of laughter and friendly banter.
During our time in Dinner Plain, we indulge in some mouth-watering culinary delights. We dive into a hearty Cattleman's feast at The High Plains Hotel, devour succulent steaks at Element (Club Wyndham) and share several scrumptious pizzas at The General (Hotham village). Each meal leaves us with bulging bellies and happy hearts.
Just as we're preparing to leave Dinner Plain behind, the clouds begin to part, revealing a jaw-dropping sight that takes our breath away. Rounding the corner near Mt Loch carpark, the sky clears, and the mist dissipates, unveiling the majestic Razorback Ridge and the towering peak of Mt Feathertop in all their glory.
"Can we walk along the ridge?" Mo pleads, his eyes sparkling with excitement. "Please, oh please, pretty please?”.
Unable to resist his enthusiasm, we pull over and jump out of the car, eager to explore this unexpected detour. As we stroll along a small part of the Razorback Ridge, the world falls away beneath us, and we're surrounded by panoramic views of the alpine landscape that seemingly extend to the ends of the globe and beyond. Mo's face lights up with wonder as he takes in the spine-tingling scenery.
"This scenery is amazeballs!" he shouts. "I can't believe this – I've always wanted to walk along the Razorback Ridge and see Mt Feathertop. This landscape! OMG! The best EVER!"
The Razorback Ridge stretches out before us, a narrow spine of rock and earth that winds its way along the edge of the mountain, offering unparalleled views of the enfolding terrain.
Reluctantly tearing ourselves away from the mesmerizing spectacle, we continue our journey back along the Great Alpine Road, passing through the charming village of Harrietville. At this point, we pause for lunch, sampling some delicious pub grub at the Harrietville Hotel.
Following lunch, we check out Harrietville Pioneer Park, nestled alongside the tranquil Ovens River. Once the site of the School of Mines, this park now serves as a tribute to the town's mining heritage and the pioneering spirit of its early settlers. Here, visitors can immerse themselves in the region's history through a collection of old pioneer equipment, intricate sculptures, and poignant monuments.
Adjacent to the park lies the Tronah Dredge Hole, a relic of Victoria's gold rush era that operated from 1942 to 1954. This mammoth dredge, weighing over 5000 tons, toiled tirelessly day and night, six days a week, in search of precious gold. Today, the deep pit has been transformed into a serene lake, offering a unique setting for swimming, picnicking, and fishing. Surrounded by a lush mix of native and European trees, the lake boasts a network of walking tracks that meander along its shores and through the encompassing forest.
With Scott and Nate dropped off and my wife Carly and daughter Lyra joining us for the next leg of our journey, we continue on to Falls Creek, where we'll spend the remainder of our mountain adventure.
Tucked away in the heart of the breathtaking Bogong High Plains and Alpine National Park, Falls Creek stands out as one of Australia's most captivating alpine villages, serving as a gateway to an avalanche of outdoor activities throughout the year.
Winter transforms Falls Creek into a glitzy ski haven, drawing in crowds with its top-tier slopes and vibrant après-ski scene. Yet, as the snow melts away, the village blossoms into a playground for summer pursuits. From thrilling mountain biking trails to serene fishing spots, from exhilarating trail runs to leisurely horseback rides.
Amidst the village's lively restaurant and bar scene, a myriad of dining options awaits, particularly bustling during the peak snow season. Even in the warmer months, some accommodations and eateries remain open, ensuring visitors can refuel and recharge after a day of exploration.
A standout feature of Falls Creek is the high-flying Rocky Valley Lake, standing tall at 1600 meters as the highest significant body of water in the country. Offering a scenic backdrop for aquatic endeavours, the lake invites guests to fish, sail, canoe, paddleboard, and swim amidst its cool tranquil waters.
With clear skies above, we swiftly checked into our cosy abode at Snowski Apartments and wasted no time venturing outside. First port of call is the Heritage Huts Trail, a 6 km circuit that takes in Wallace Hut, Rover Chalet, Cope Hut and follows a section of aqueduct, wanders across grassy alpine meadows and leads through classic snow gum forest. Along the way Lyra tries her hand at a bit of nature photography.
Built in 1889 by the Wallace brothers (Arthur, William and Stewart) Wallace Hut is the oldest cattleman’s hut in the Alpine National Park. The Wallace clan grazed their livestock on the Bogong High Plains between 1869 and 1914. Originally made from snow gum and woollybutt shingles, the hut sits in a crackerjack setting amongst snow gum woodland. Cope Hut was built by the Ski Club of Victoria in 1929 after skiing experienced a surge in popularity during the 1920’s. It was so large and comfortable that it was dubbed ‘The Menzies of the high plains’. And it’s easy to see why. The hut has solid timber bunks at each end and an impressive stone fireplace. Unlike many other huts that were built by cattlemen, Cope Hut was the first to cater for tourists.
Mo summarises the Heritage Huts Trail perfectly. "This hike totally rocks! It’s got super cool huts, mind-blowing views, rainbow-colored wildflowers, giant gnarly snow gums, and interesting stories about Aboriginal history. He takes a deep breath and once again he repeats his favourite catchphrase. “The best EVER!”
The following day, when it's time for a change of pace, we break out the mountain bikes, riding the Aqueduct Trail and exploring some of the gentler mountain biking tracks that wind their way through the forest and across the slopes. A twilight ride as the sun dips below the horizon, painting the sky with dazzling colours, is the perfect way to cap off the day.
In the morning, the summit of Mt McKay awaits at 1842 meters, boasting the title of Australia's highest drivable point. On clear days, the vista from this lofty perch stretches endlessly, revealing miles of pristine bushland, rugged mountains, and shimmering alpine lakes. Mo's excitement ignites like fireworks as he sweeps his gaze across the expansive landscape. His reaction was hardly surprising. "Wowsers, this lookout is insane!" he bellows, his grin spreading from ear to ear. "The best EVER!".
Later in the day, we embark on a trek through Heathy Spur, a section that forms part of the Falls to Hotham Alpine Crossing (FHAC). This 37-kilometre hike links the alpine resorts of Falls Creek and Hotham, and is gradually gaining fame as one of Australia's premier multi-day walks. Typically completed over three days, the trail boasts designated camping platforms, offering hikers a comfortable place to rest along the way. Plans are in motion to extend the FHAC route to a whopping 57 kilometres, complete with enhanced facilities, promising an even more spectacular experience for adventurers.
Our grand finale adventure before we bid farewell is the hike to Ropers Lookout, a path that meanders alongside Rocky Valley Aqueduct, through enchanting snow gum woodlands, and across vibrant wildflower meadows and alpine herbfields. After a brief ascent, the passage unveils a basalt knoll known as Roper's Lookout, sitting proudly at 1,706 meters. From this elevated perch, the exhaustive bird's-eye view of the surrounding high country is simply sublime. The sweeping vista encompasses the picturesque Kiewa Valley, Falls Creek Village and Rocky Valley Lake
I watch as Mo's eyes widen like two frisbees, "Jeepers Creepers, I'm on top of the world! This view is super-duper!" he exclaims, triumphantly raising his hands into the air. Before he can finish, I quickly interject, "Let me guess son... the best EVER!"
The writer was a guest of Tourism North East.