Some people may consider that the Mallee Country, in the north west of Victoria, has little to offer, but it is home to several national parks, all within easy reach of Adelaide and Melbourne. These parks are an excellent destination to check out new gear, or for people unfamiliar with the outback to decide whether or not to invest in the equipment necessary for the long trips involved when visiting the more remote areas. They are also excellent places to simply to relax and unwind.
The Little Desert National Park
The Little Desert National Park is to the south of the Western Highway, with access from Nhill, Kiata or Dimboola. Stretching for about one hundred kilometres from the South Australian border to the Wimmera River, and roughly twenty-five kilometres from north to south, the Little Desert is not so little. And with over 400 millimetres annual rainfall, it does not meet the criteria for a desert. The pioneers defined it as such because European crops did not grow well. The sandy soil was deficient in minerals and nutrients, and the rain drained away too quickly for shallow rooted plants to thrive.
All the campgrounds in the Little Desert National Park are accessible by conventional vehicle, but a myriad of sandy tracks traverse the park and these are suitable for four wheel drive vehicles only. A heavy duty 4WD is not necessary, and often the lighter SUVs perform better than their larger cousins. These tracks are ideal for people who are new to 4WDs to practice the basics of sand driving, but they should not be underestimated. Some stretches of sand are deep and can present a challenge even for experienced drivers. Warning signs advise drivers before they reach the difficult sections. Regardless of the vehicle, carrying recovery equipment is a sensible precaution, and essential when travelling alone. Inexperienced drivers will be more relaxed if travelling with friends.
We are lucky to have this national park. Established as the Kiata Lowan Sanctuary in 1955, the park was initially just a small area set aside to conserve a little of the habitat favoured by the Mallee Fowl, the Lowan. When the eastern section was added to the sanctuary in 1968, the area was declared The Little Desert National Park.
Also in 1968, despite the land being unsuitable, the Victorian Government announced plans to subdivide 80,000 hectares for agriculture. The massive outcry that followed this announcement forced the government to abandon its plans. In 1971, the land that became the Kiata campground was donated to the park and in 1988 the remaining area of crown land was added.
The Kiata Lowan Sanctuary, now renamed the Keith Hateley Nature Walk, is a good introduction to some of the plants and animals found in the Little Desert. The walk is easy, about one kilometre in length, with numbered pegs along the path tying in with a leaflet that explains about the vegetation and the behaviour of the native animals. A short side track leads to a Mallee Fowl’s mound. Even when it is not being worked, it is an impressive sight and gives a good idea of how industrious the male bird is. For ten to eleven months of the year he builds and cares for the mound. During late summer the bird excavates a central chamber and scrapes plant matter into it. At the end of summer, following season-breaking rains, the bird seals the chamber with a layer of sandy soil and, as the vegetable matter decomposes, heat is generated. The male bird checks the temperature daily, opening or closing the mound to maintain a temperature of 33 degrees Celsius by balancing the heat from the sun and that of the decomposing vegetation. Once satisfied with the temperature, the female will lay up to 20 eggs into the central chamber over a period of up to four months, with the first eggs hatching while egg laying is still in progress. Each egg is ten percent of the hen’s body weight, so one egg is a large investment.
After all the effort expended in mound building and egg production, neither parent takes any interest in their young. They have to dig themselves out though a metre of sandy soil and then fend for themselves. As a result the mortality rate is high.
But the Little Desert is more than sandy tracks and Mallee Fowl. The park is a haven for native birds with over 300 species recorded. Some are resident and others seasonal visitors. Other animals that are common include kangaroos, emus and echidnas. Possums often visit camps at night and make a feast on any food not stowed away.
Bushwalkers are well catered for with a range of signposted walks starting at the Kiata campground. These vary in duration from 30 minutes to four days.
The campgrounds at Horseshoe Bend, Ackle Bend and Kiata have ample space for caravans and large rigs. These three campgrounds have basic facilities including fireplaces, picnic tables and toilets. Those at Horseshoe Bend are flushing water closets. The camping area at Broughton Waterhole, in the central section, is accessible only by 4WD and has no facilities.
Horseshoe Bend and Ackle Bends are on the Wimmera River at the east of the park. Whilst campers may be able to launch a canoe from the campgrounds, the banks are steep and rule out anything larger. You could launch at Dimboola, but the river is full of snags and it may not be navigable.
Wyperfeld National Park
Just a short journey to the north of the Little Desert, Wyperfeld was the first national park to be proclaimed in Australia. It begins about seventy kilometres north of Dimboola and is divided into two sections, both accessible by conventional vehicles, including caravans and large motorhomes. The Wonga campground in the southern section can be reached from Hopetoun or Rainbow. The northern section is best approached from Patchewollock. In the southern section free gas barbecues are available in the day use area, close to the park office and information centre.
The Wonga camping ground is at the end of a bitumen access road. It’s an extensive area with large, flat sites. Camping facilities comprise tables, fireplaces and toilets. There is a number of signed walks that range from a couple of hours duration to two days. The James Barrett Nature Drive, an eleven kilometre drive, begins at the campground.
The northern section is less developed and features two campgrounds, walks and a plethora of 4WD tracks. Casuarina campground can be reached in conventional vehicles, but Snowdrift campground, named after the large white sand dune that dominates the camping area, is accessible only by 4WD vehicles.
At the east of the parks, a 4WD track connects the southern and northern sections, but is suitable only for well equipped, high clearance vehicles. From the southern section it begins at the Dattuck Track. Although the track is well signposted at every junction it is best travelled in company as it crosses a series of sand dunes and the sand is soft. One dune in particular is large and in warm weather can cause difficulties. It is easier to cross if tackled early in the morning before the sand has warmed. The sand is denser when cold. Check track conditions with the park rangers before travelling this route.
Murray-Sunset National Park
The Murray-Sunset NP is further north. It is the largest national park in Victoria, stretching from the Murray River in the north to Pink Lakes in the south, close to Underbool on the Mallee Highway. It features several salt lakes and plays a unique role, protecting over 180 species of rare plants and animals.
In the southern section the main camping area is at Lake Crosbie, which is thirteen kilometres north of the Mallee Highway along a well graded unsealed road. For travellers along the Mallee Highway this is a convenient and interesting overnight stop. There are nine other camping areas throughout the southern section of the park, but facilities are limited. The tracks to Mopoke Hut and Rocket Lake camping areas are narrow, leading through timbered country and are unsuitable for caravans or large motorhomes. Check with Parks Victoria for access to other camping areas. The old shearers’ quarters, at the campsite with the same name, offers hostel style accommodation which must be pre-booked. See the side bar for contact information. Most tracks within the park require a high clearance vehicle. Some become impassable in wet weather and others are suitable only for 4WDs. For people with limited time, or travelling in a conventional vehicle, the Pioneer Drive provides a good overview.
From 1916 until 1979, Lake Crosbie was the centre of a commercial salt-mining enterprise. It was a seasonal operation during the summer, when the salt was dry. Most of the workers were itinerant and lived under canvas with their families, but local pastoralists also joined the labour force to supplement their incomes. During World War Two about twenty Italian prisoners of war were brought in to work the salt each year. The accommodation erected to house them was far superior to the canvas that formed the housing for the Australians.
It was hot thirsty work, with the abrasive salt rapidly destroying clothes and equipment. The salt was harvested by horse drawn scarifiers and scrapers. Horseshoes had to be replaced every nine days. The horses experienced the same heat and thirst as the human workers, but unlike the humans, they had no choice.
Some of the old equipment has been collected and is displayed, with piles of salt, at the side north bound track, a little south of the junction with the Pioneer Track, at the northern end of Lake Crosbie. A notice board provides information about the mining process.
The northern section borders the Murray River and is accessible from the Sturt Highway. There are several boat ramps along the Murray, but no campgrounds.
Activities
All three parks are best visited in spring to see the wildflowers which include orchids, but in dry years the displays are less spectacular.
Bird watching is a popular activity with over 300 species recorded. The threatened Mallee Emu-Wren is one species that calls the parks home. A full list of birds recorded is available on the Parks Victoria website.
Emus, possums and grey kangaroos are common and walkers may see the shy echidna or a bearded dragon basking in the sun.
Wear suitable clothing, including a hat and strong walking shoes/boots. Carry water. Use sunscreen. Advise someone reliable of your intentions, as mobile phones may not have a service, and don’t forget to tell them when you return.
Signposted walks provide information about the plants and aspects of the Parks’ histories. The walking tracks vary from short walks of less than an hour, to four days duration for the keen bushwalker. Other activities include photography and, depending on the campground, boating and fishing. Tracks provided 4WD access to more remote areas. There is ample space for children to work off excess energy in most camping areas. Another option is to simply relax and enjoy the peace with a glass or two.
Supplies
Most supplies and services are available at Nhill, Dimboola, Underbool and Ouyen. For major shopping or repairs, Mildura or Horsham are not too far away, depending which park you are visiting.
There is no garbage collection service, so take your rubbish with you when you leave.
Camping
Some campgrounds are free. Others need to be pre-booked and paid via online.
For up to date information, contact Parks Victoria on 13 19 63 or visit www.parks.vic.gov.au.